Food reporters getting the facts about your food during COVID-19

The COVID-19 pandemic is throwing infinite story ideas at reporters — including those covering food, whose beat has entirely pivoted. This pandemic is proving that food connects every person, and food reporters are digging deep to share the faces of these changing industries.

We checked in with two RSJ alumni reporting on food to learn about their experience covering these stories while based from their homes during COVID-19.

Endless new story ideas

Karon Liu (external link)  had just shifted from being the Toronto Star’s staff food writer to culture reporter before the pandemic hit, leaving little opportunity to fully explore ideas for the new position. He is continuing written food coverage under the culture umbrella.

“There's so much to write about when it comes to food,” said Liu. “It's really not hard thinking about new angles. If anything, it’s trying to figure out which to prioritize because there's so many stories out there, but there's only so many reporters at the Star.” 

He said that old-school restaurants that had next to no social media presence before the pandemic are finding their place online, instead of relying on word of mouth. 

“They're getting their more technologically savvy kids to create an Instagram account and play with memes and get on Twitter, and reach out to different people,” said Liu. “I get to find out about restaurants that I've never heard of before doing takeout and serving this kind of food.”

Natalia Manzocco (external link)  (RSJ ’08) is the sole food writer for NOW Magazine, as well as the life editor and social media editor. Until the pandemic, NOW’s food coverage was almost entirely restaurant- and bar-based.

The challenge for Manzocco has been finding time to cover all of the food-related pandemic stories, while also covering her other sections.

“These are the realities of working in a business with finite time and finite resources… just (learn to) forgive yourself for not being able to get to literally everything, because if you (try to) do that you're going to lose your mind,” she said.

She tries to capture more content and provide resources to readers through formats such as listicles, including a weekly “Takeout Five (external link) ” column featuring food joints.

“I can have a little bit of leeway and just put in dumb jokes and get weird with it, which is a valuable way to sort of blow off steam,” said Manzocco. “If you spend that much time writing hard news and watching this parade of stress on your Twitter timeline all day, it's kind of a fun way to do something a little bit wacky.”

Restaurants facing bleak conditions, perception of food changing

There are inspiring stories — restaurants coming up with innovative new business models, people getting creative with home cooking and acts of kindness. But there are also some hard-pressing issues — food insecurity, restaurants trying to survive with rent costs, avoiding food waste and effects on the supply chain.

Manzocco recently reported (external link)  on a survey that found that one in two independent restaurateurs are not expecting their businesses to survive if the existing COVID-19 conditions continue. Some have already closed (external link) .

While they are trying their hardest, Toronto restaurants face high rent in an already precarious industry. External food delivery services provide some business but take a large commission.

“Restaurants, especially independent restaurants, are uniquely badly suited to weather a crisis like this,” said Manzocco. “Their livelihood and their survival depend on butts in seats, people buying booze, spending cash in the restaurant.”

The food economy goes well beyond restaurants. The ways that people eat and obtain their food have been altered entirely.

“A lot of these discussions are being brought to the forefront, now that it's a month in and everyone's kind of settled, and (are) able to think more about the lasting impacts of the pandemic, on food, culture and restaurant culture, for months and years to come,” said Liu.

And there are the stories of migrant and production line workers, farmers, grocery store employees, restaurant staff, community organizers, deliverers and others who are keeping food available while risking exposure to themselves during the pandemic.

“We're here to tell you what's happening with your food, where the food is coming from,” said Liu. “What's happening to the people who produce the food, and a lot of times they're the most vulnerable (in) this.”

Future of food writing

Staff food reporters are becoming fewer in Canada, as are food critics (external link) . Manzocco worries about the future of food writing.

“Food is such an emotional experience in so many ways,” said Manzocco. “It's close to people's hearts for sure. But, you know, in the grand scheme of things, if people can see an opportunity to cut something from a publication for budgetary reasons, they're going to do it.” 

Liu wants to eliminate the concept of food writing being “fluff” and the perception that food writers are only elite restaurant critics.

“I really hope that people, readers and those working in media know that food writing is a lot more than what they think it is,” said Liu. “We're explaining how food works, especially in a time of pandemic. And we're also giving you recipes. I don't know any other section that can do that.”