Susan Langdon: a changemaker in Canadian fashion

Susan Keiko Langdon is the executive director, chief executive officer and chief operating officer of Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI), a part-time lecturer at Toronto Metropolitan University (TMU) and an all-around powerhouse in Canada’s fashion industry. From her success as a designer, to taking the reins at TFI and being the first racialized woman in a leadership role in Canadian fashion to be named to the Order of Canada — Langdon has continually broken barriers and paved the way for future generations of designers, using her influence to nurture emerging talent in the industry.

Rooted in fashion: Toronto beginnings

Growing up in Toronto as a third-generation Japanese Canadian, Langdon was immersed in fashion through her family. Her mother worked as a sample maker on Spadina Avenue in downtown Toronto, her father was a presser, her aunts were seamstresses and her uncle was a furrier.

“My mother taught me to sew, and I made my first dress in Grade 6, so that would have been age 11,” Langdon recalled. “I was really proud of it, so that got me hooked.”

In high school, Langdon’s advanced sewing skills caught the attention of her home economics teacher, who taught Langdon pattern drafting — the process of drawing a garment pattern on paper according to a body’s measurements, which then serves as a customized blueprint for creating that garment. This specialized skill led Langdon to create original pieces, which she used during her interview with admissions to enroll in TMU’s Fashion program.

Building a career in fashion: 1977–1993

Shortly after graduating from TMU in 1977, Langdon began her career working for a small start-up fashion brand in Toronto, which had just been launched by a designer and her husband. The small business environment gave Langdon a comprehensive understanding of the industry, from wholesale selling and production to quality control and invoicing.

After two years in this role, Langdon transitioned into various positions within the fashion industry, including working with retail buyers to develop collections. Langdon’s cumulative experience landed her a position with a large manufacturer known for supporting new designers. In 1987, with the backing of this manufacturer, Langdon launched her evening wear line, Zakura.

“Zakura was a huge success,” Langdon said. “It was during this period that I gained so much insight and experience in managing a brand, from its inception through to sales, production and HR.”

In its first season, Zakura generated $500,000 in wholesale sales and was picked up by luxury retailers like Holt Renfrew. The brand went on to generate millions annually until the 1993 recession hit Canada, forcing Zakura to close down.

“I was trying to prepare myself for the inevitable, but when that day came, it was still really tough,” Langdon said. “Because here’s this baby that I had created from scratch, and I poured my heart and soul into it, and then boom, it ended so abruptly.”

A new chapter: 1994–present

While working as head designer for Zakura, Langdon also lectured part-time at TMU. During this time, she was approached to apply for the top job at TFI. Langdon decided to go for the interview, but she was also pursuing other opportunities, including a prestigious grant that provided designers with funding to start a business. In February 1994, she found herself with multiple options — she was awarded the grant, offered the job at TFI and approved to become a tenured professor at TMU.

“I thought to myself, ‘My God, these are all fantastic opportunities,’ but I know how my mind works and I am motivated by challenges,” she said. “I had never run a non-profit before, and it was a lot of mentoring and teaching, so that’s why I chose the job at TFI.”

TFI provides early to mid-stage fashion entrepreneurs with the resources they need to succeed. Langdon has been leading the award-winning organization for the past 30 years and leveraged her knowledge, contacts and experience in the fashion industry to help TFI become a key incubator of Canadian talent. TFI members can access one-on-one mentoring, participate in networking events with fashion and business professionals to share and build connections, and access a celebrity styling agency in Los Angeles.

Helping others achieve their dreams is what motivates Langdon to keep going.

“When I see them [fashion entrepreneurs] thrive, I feel so happy,” she said. “Just watching them grow and succeed is the best part of the job.”

Some notable TFI alumni include David Dixon (external link) , Greta Constantine (external link) , Smythe (external link) , Jenny Bird (external link)  and Sid Neigum (external link) .

Receiving the Order of Canada

Langdon has played a crucial role in creating and implementing initiatives that have had a significant impact on the Canadian fashion industry. Her support and mentoring of emerging designers and entrepreneurs was recognized in 2021, when she was named to the Order of Canada. This award, one of the country’s highest civilian honours, acknowledges Langdon’s extraordinary contributions to Canada’s culture and economy.

Langdon had always secretly dreamed of being honoured with this award, due to a conversation she once had with her mother.

“I remember my mother telling me about this new thing called the Order of Canada when I was a child,” Langdon said. “I could see her eyes light up, and I knew this award meant something to her.”

Although Langdon’s mother passed away before she could see her daughter receive the Order of Canada at the award ceremony, Langdon was able to share the news of the honour with her beforehand.

When Langdon reflects upon her long and successful career, she credits much of her work ethic and motivation to her Japanese heritage. Her grandfather often told her that their family was descended from samurai, and instilled the values of loyalty, discipline and honour.

“Throughout my life and career, I’ve made it a priority to embody those characteristics in everything I do,” she said. “In many ways, I believe the spirit of a samurai lives on in me, as I’m always ready to fight for what I believe in.”